The tide is low as we creep through thick fog toward the small harbour of Napasoq, a tiny settlement on a rocky island fifty kilometres southeast of Maniitsoq on the west coast. We pass the deserted pier jutting out from the rocky shore, towering over the still shallow water, and pull up alongside a ramshackle …
Month: May 2020
The antenatal classes I attend in Nuuk are a two-and-a-bit language affair. Our Greenlandic midwife speaks mostly in Danish, a little in Greenlandic, and – for my benefit – throws in a few short explanations in English, which is necessary now and then. Although I can manage pretty well in Danish, in antenatal class there …
Each morning on the bus to work, I pass the cemetary in the centre of Nuuk, a field of sparse, white crosses against a pale blanket of snow. The bus pauses there by that bare white field with its rigid crosses, gathered in by a wooden fence that holds back the steadily encroaching apartment blocks …