All or nothing in Narsarsuaq

I last visited Narsarsuaq years ago. It’s an abandoned American military airbase and a settlement entirely devoted to supporting the only airport (at…

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The illusion of isolation

If you want to be anonymous, Greenland might seem like a good idea. Greenland’s towns and settlements are so small, so remote, so…

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Accidental animal parts

Normal people collect flowers, rocks. But we’re not all normal, are we. I once knew a cat that collected leaves instead of dead…

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Farewell to winter light

For me, winters in northern Europe were a dark dirge. Weeks of rain, sleet slapping the windows, grim morning darkness and a cold…

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