Greenland from the Outside In

The back of our house looks on to a rocky mountain slope. Now and then we hear the bird-like cries of an Arctic…

This is a recipe for Greenlandic salad. Three of the five ingredients are meat – ‘mattak’ (whale fat and skin), seal meat, and…

Until a week before our journey, we hadn’t decided if we would sail north or south. In the end, the lure of Evighedsfjord…

Glaciers kind of freak me out. They’re beautiful, even awe-inspiring. But also freaky. Huge silent walls of frozen water that sit around doing…

Last week was the longest day of the year, June 21, when in Nuuk the sun rose at 2:53 am and set four…

June 21st is Greenland’s National Day and the longest day of the year. It’s celebrated in every town and settlement in Greenland with…

Much as I love it, I seem to have plenty of criticism of Greenland. But the Bank of Greenland? No complaints. For one,…

A Qivittoq is a frightening, often evil creature – a ghost man living in the mountains. Like all good scary stories, the story of…

‘The road to hell is paved with good intentions,’ they say. Greenland abounds in good intentions. Mine included. Last year, the Government of…