Greenland from the Outside In

The world’s oldest helicopter

Air Greenland is the proud owner of the world’s oldest operational helicopter – a nineteen-seater Sikorsky S-61. Well, in truth probably every component…

A Snow Cave with Wifi

Last winter the snowfall in Nuuk was more than locals could remember for decades. It snowed and it snowed. By the time we…

Child’s play in the Winter Darkness

We moved to Greenland in mid winter, almost three years ago today. Our son, then five, was culture-shocked by his sudden transposition from…

A dose of our own medicine

*Photograph by Natasha Henwood My family are nomadic – my husband and I by choice, our son by grim reluctance. Since I left…

Flying in the Arctic

Arctic travel requires patience, I reminded myself as I waited in a queue for a hotel voucher at Keflavik ariport. We were stuck…

I like whales, but I couldn’t eat a whole one

We sailed into a small settlement on a calm day, two of us motoring in an open boat. I leaned over the side,…

Suburban search and rescue

It was pitch black, five o’clock on a late January afternoon, when my son and I walked the few hundred metres from our…

“F*** Greenpeace”

*Photograph by Chris Kirkland “F*** Greenpeace,” declared the bumper sticker of a battered old station wagon. I couldn’t but laugh – only…

The Power of One

Last week, an 80% turnout of Australians voted 62% in favour of same-sex marriage – a clear mandate to politicians to pass legislation….