The silent solitude of sleep
A faint birdlike call in the darkness rouses me and I reach for my phone. It’s three in the morning. The pale yellow…
Read More“Still want to live here?”
Tiny, idyllic-looking settlements are sparsely scattered along the coast and fjords of west Greenland. They’re beautiful, but there’s not much work. One of…
Read MoreMan overboard
In hindsight, it wasn’t a very good idea. Earlier in the day moving between one boat and the other had been easy. After…
Read MoreGreenlandic surprises
The surprises one meets in Greenland might be out of the ordinary, but the responses one becomes accustomed to are perhaps even more…
Read MorePolar Podcasts
Sometimes good things come from bad places. Three years ago, almost to the day, I slipped on a gravelly surface while trekking in…
Read MoreSeparation of church and state?
Our second son was born in Nuuk three weeks ago. At the hospital, I was given a document stating his social security number…
Read MoreToornaarsuk – impervious, indispensable, and apparently indestructible
Greenland is full of interesting characters and P is one of them – a Greenlander who has worked with my husband on and…
Read More“We’re never going camping again”
In the past two weeks, while awaiting the arrival of our second son, our first was finally learning a love of the outdoors….
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