“F*** Greenpeace”

*Photograph by Chris Kirkland   “F*** Greenpeace,” declared the bumper sticker of a battered old station wagon. I couldn’t but laugh – only…

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On thin ice

October is late in the year to be sailing. It’s cold. An icy rind is forming around the shore and a blanket of…

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“What’s in the box?”

Owning a boat is an unrivalled way of experiencing Greenland’s natural beauty. It’s also an effective and efficient way of getting into a…

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Paradise Lost

*Photograph by Elis Hoffman. There is a brief moment in the early Greenlandic summer when a confluence of factors make it seem that…

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Arctic gardening

Greenland is cold. You probably know that. One consequence is that almost all fruit and vegetables are shipped from Denmark. This means you…

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Right the first time

I had to laugh when I got this shopping bag from a supermarket in Finland. Not because of the weird language or any…

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When the wind blows

*Photo by Daniel Herwartz When the wind blows in Greenland, you know about it. The winter storms are terrific. ‘Terrific’ in that they…

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Explosions on the Sun

My husband and son stand together on the balcony outside our house in the darkness, warm inside their thick down jackets, furred hoods…

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